The River Landing

Buffalo Gnats: The Scourge of Clean, Flowing Waters

When the grip of winter finally becomes weak in central Illinois, sometime around the first week of March, signs of the coming spring have been present for some time, for one who is attuned to slight environmental clues. Less snow, lengthening daytime hours, and warmer temperatures are obvious to even the person most disconnected from nature. Gradually returning bird species, sounding out their spring songs, require a bit more attention to detail, while reawakening plant life can be much more subtle, until the trees leaf out and flowers make their brief appearances. There is a definite optimism in the air as spring gains greater momentum, becoming a rushing torrent of color and sounds by late April. My thoughts fill with plans for outdoor activities, reluctant as I am to miss even one of nature’s spring events. But then the first of the buffalo gnats flies into my eyes and I am undone.

When the buffalo gnats appear, my hopes are dashed, because I know what is coming over the next few weeks: one step outside and a cloud of gnats quickly materializes, spontaneously generated from thin air, over my head with numerous kamikaze-like individuals making forays into my eyes, ears, and mouth, landing on and biting areas of exposed skin. Waving them away only seems to attract more and make them more aggressive. The usual DEET-containing insect repellents have absolutely no effect. And I soon find myself heading for the house, feeling quite beaten, until the sun drops below the horizon and the gnats become inactive.

Buffalo gnats are also called black flies, and while each individual may only be one-fifth of an inch long or less, they attack en masse, by the hundreds it seems. They start showing up during the peak of the songbird migrations in late April or early May, and I have learned to live with them by telling myself that the insectivorous wood warblers, whose flights may take some species from as far as South America to the boreal forests of Canada, must also eat; and what a fine example of an intricately timed natural cycle it is that the migrating warblers seem to peak in numbers at about the same time each year that the buffalo gnats become numerous.

The yearly regularity of the birds and buffalo gnats reminds me that there are many other repeating patterns in nature, such as the spring floods and yearly temperature cycles on Illinois’ rivers. Buffalo gnats are keyed to stream water temperatures and the spring season, so their appearance is actually somewhat predictable, although whether a particular year will be good or bad for gnats is much more difficult to foretell. They inhabit flowing waters, the cleaner and more oxygenated the better; and from egg through their immature or larval stages, buffalo gnats live wholly beneath the water’s surface feeding on algae and other organic material. They continue to emerge from the water in spring as adults until the water temperature reaches about 70 degrees F, which may be around the middle of June, after which the cycle is complete, and the buffalo gnat season is over until the next year. Spawning fish are also keyed to certain water temperatures and also to rising waters during the spring floods. Of course, as with every natural event, there is variability; and some years the spring floods occur a bit later or earlier than average or the water temperature rises slower or faster than average, depending upon weather conditions over the season. Simple physical phenomena such as the tides and the rising sun can be predicted with a great accuracy, while the more complicated ecological events are given to much less certainty; one may make predictions based upon experience of the known ranges of variability for a variety of factors that can influence this or that event, but to say exactly what will happen and precisely when is not possible.

Without a doubt, buffalo gnats are a scourge, and not only from a human-centered point of view; they are capable of killing nestling birds, pets, poultry, and even livestock; people with allergic reactions may have serious complications beyond simply itching and swelling. In fact, in recent years, gnat populations have been so great in parts of west-central Illinois, probably due to higher than usual precipitation and cooler water temperatures remaining longer, that it is likely gnat attacks have caused a long-established great blue heron rookery to be abandoned. In May 2008, nestling bald eagles, with nowhere to escape, were seen to be visibly agitated at Chautauqua National Wildlife Refuge, presumably from unrelenting attacks of buffalo gnats. The situation calls to mind how insulated we humans can be at times within our comfortable environments of our own making from the raw, uncompromising, inconvenient aspects of nature, which, of course, are as much a part of the whole as the human-perceived beauty.

On good days, folks are wont to speak of balance, stability, and harmony in nature, probably because such ideas are attractive and comforting. But are such thoughts realistic? Hordes of any one species, especially one harmful to so many others, does not to me suggest harmony. By cleaning up our pollution from rivers, one might say that we are moving toward a more balanced relationship with the natural world. Fish and mussel communities certainly benefit. But where is the harmony from our perspective when clean, healthy waters result in greater buffalo gnat populations? Though the answer, whatever it may be, is subjective, I have comfort and confidence in one thought: there will eventually again be a year when buffalo gnat populations crash. It is that particular spring I truly look forward to...and that too will not last. Such is the way.

This figure (click on it to enlarge) shows the water level pattern (i.e., hydrograph) of the Illinois River at Havana averaged daily from 1960 to 1993, and actual water temperature readings from 1989 to 1993. In the 1890s, Charles Kofoid of the Illinois Natural History Survey, studied the Illinois River and its floodplain lakes. He documented that the river’s plankton (minute algae and tiny drifting invertebrate organisms called “zooplankton”) peaked, which Kofoid termed a “vernal plankton pulse,” at about the same time that the river reached its highest spring level (the spring flood). We also know that many fish species spawn about this same time, and recently hatched young fish feed extensively on zooplankton. In the fall, fish begin moving toward overwintering areas (e.g., calm backwaters with good oxygen levels) on cue with falling water temperatures and rising water levels. These are only a few of the many other ecological events that can be tied to the river’s hydrograph and temperature.

American White Pelicans Coming Home to Roost

August 25, 2009

We came out to the Chautauqua National Wildlife Refuge, my wife and I, in the early evening for a fruit and cheese supper at the Eagle Bluff Access area, to relax on our fold-up chairs for a quiet time observing life on the refuge, perhaps a bit of reading, and to watch the sun fall below the bluffs across the Illinois River valley. But except for a few swallows of various kinds, great blue herons, and double-crested cormorants, there was not much wildlife activity on the refuge; not even a need for setting up the spotting scope.

After our supper, and just before sundown, we left the observation deck for a walk across the refuge, toward the Illinois River, on the levee that separates the refuge’s north and south pools of Lake Chautauqua. And that was also when many birds became increasingly active. There were more foraging swallows, which passed over the cross levee on their way between the two refuge pools; several loudly calling Caspian terns; a great horned owl hooting from obscurity within the black willow thickets; and a lone pectoral sandpiper that drew our attention on the barren sand along the water’s edge. Then at once, we saw a line of American white pelicans flying in an long, undulating, repeating pattern across the sky, then another group, and then still another, which abruptly changed direction as the group flew low directly above us, apparently nervous about flying so close to two human beings. Before too long, more pelicans flew over, and we estimated a couple thousand that joined together into one large grouping in the far corner of the refuge’s north pool, gathering together in a large night roost on the water.

As the sun sank below the horizon, we heard loudly calling cicadas, another sure sign of summer’s imminent end.

 

Canoeing the Willow Thickets of Chautauqua National Wildlife Refuge

September 19, 2009

I launched my canoe at the old boat ramp at Chautauqua Refuge’s south pool. At this time of the year, the water would normally be quite low, sometimes even too shallow for a canoe. But refuge managers have kept the water levels deep for the last couple of years in an attempt to set back the black willow thicket that is threatening to take over the south pool. Extensive rains and a frequently flooding Illinois River this year have encouraged this effort.

From a distance, the flooded willow thickets look impenetrable. But a closer approach would show that the trees are spaced far enough apart for canoe travel. The thickets, which began growing in earnest about 15 years ago, have been self-thinning and growing taller ever since; beavers have also been thinning the willows a bit as attested by their numerous cuttings and occasional lodges. But the flooding keeps succession from proceeding as it normally would toward a silver maple-green ash forest. This thicket that is becoming a forest is solid black willow, with the largest individuals about 10 inches in diameter and 25 to 30 feet tall.

Out in the open water, migrating tree swallows kept me company, darting close to the canoe as they gulped insects to fuel their southward migrations. At the willow thicket, which seemed to cover a not insignificant proportion of the south pool, a great blue heron took flight from a willow perch. And great egrets stood on branches that barely protruded from the water. A belted kingfisher perched on a higher snag, and let out its usual rattle call as I floated past. Though I was still on the open water, from within the flooded willow forest I heard wood duck calls echoing from the trees. At one point, ten wood ducks flew from the shelter of the willows; and I speculated that a true survey of the entire thicket-forest would undoubtedly yield many more. The willows are clearly providing birds with needed habitat, though obviously not the open-water diving ducks or ducks of open marshes.

For a few moments, I enjoyed the warm morning sun on my back; but I paddled onward, bound for the cool shelter of the willows, where I planned to have an early lunch and read. Then a loud, high-pitched calling from the willow edge commanded my attention. My first thought was "shorebird," but then I estimated the shallowest water in the willows was about four feet deep; so, I reasoned, a shorebird could not have made that sound. And then I saw the osprey, flying directly toward me. It probably used the willows as a night roost and early morning foraging perch, and was awaiting mid-morning thermal activity before continuing southward on its journey. The bird circled around and then rapidly gained altitude, before soaring away toward the southwest. I struggled to keep the bird in my binoculars as the breeze continually turned my canoe in the wrong direction for viewing. But within a few minutes, the osprey was nearly beyond sight, and so I continued with my paddling business, to the willows and shade.

Hiding in the black willows at Chautauqua NWR.

An Illinois River Bluff Hike and Turning 52

I rolled out of bed the morning of my 52^nd birthday feeling the usual familiar pains in my left foot and lower backside. But I truly felt no older than I had felt the year before, and actually felt quite younger than those first shocking moments of turning 50 – which really was not so bad after all. Folks decades older, I am sure, would think of such thoughts as ridiculous folly. For my birthday gift, I chose a hike with my wife Julie on the Illinois River bluffs at Forest Park South Nature Preserve.

As I dressed, in my mind’s eye I contrasted the view from the back door of our Mason County home, a rather flat to gently rolling countryside, with the rugged bluffs at Peoria that abruptly rise some 200 feet above the river; the bluffs more resemble foothills of the Missouri Ozarks than central Illinois’ agricultural landscape. From Havana, we followed the river bluffs in a northeasterly direction just beyond Peoria to the Forest Park Nature Center. Then without delay, we began our hike to the bluff tops; it was a steep hike at times, and I had to favor my right knee, for a moment feeling older than my years, lest I cause aggravation of an old injury. Just as we entered the woods, I heard a white-breasted nuthatch, tufted titmouse, and black-capped chick-a-dee, and I knew that we were in the midst of a mixed-species flock of birds foraging their way through the forest, looking for insects in crevices of tree bark or snapping up an occasional seed or berry. In a moment, there was a brown creeper and downy woodpecker, all part of the diffuse flock.

Part way to the top of the bluff we sat and rested upon a large boulder, listening and watching the birds moving onward. The boulder was certainly a hard seat, but it reminded me that the river bluffs were actually formed thousands of years ago at the edge of a great glacier that grinded across the land from the top of the world, that reached all the way around the earth’s northern hemisphere to Siberia. The glacier ended at Peoria where it melted at the same rate as it moved forward for thousands of years, dropping rocks, boulders, gravel, and sand onto a terminal moraine like a giant conveyor belt. The boulder we rested on, in fact, was once probably in Canada.

After a few minutes, we continued our hike to the bluff top. Once reaching the ridge, the trail was more level and the hike was easier. I recalled from a previous hike on this trail encountering an elderly gentleman walking with a cane, and I thought that if I could do the same in a few decades, I would feel satisfied, to say nothing of feeling extremely fortunate.

We enjoyed walking through the mature oak-hickory forest, noticing signs of its struggle against being overtaken by sugar maple and ironwood trees. Some of the oldest oak trees have experienced heart rot, a typical condition for old trees, and have fallen or lost large branches in recent wind and ice storms. The fallen trees were old before I was born, but as long as their seedlings survive to reach the canopy, future forests will be maintained with the same species assemblage and resemble today’s forest, though the actual canopy trees will likely be different individuals.

Prairie opening at Forest Park South Nature Preserve.

Eventually the trail entered an open area, part woodland and part prairie, that may be termed a savanna or barrens. The prairie opening follows the ridge line, especially on the south- and southwestern-facing slopes. Here I expected to see red-headed woodpeckers, who thrive in such habitats, but the woodpeckers were elusive or absent. From out vantage point at the prairie, we had an unobstructed view of a portion of upper Peoria Lake, which fills the river valley. Even with the beautiful view, I found it impossible to look upon the lake and not recall its many intractable environmental problems, not the least of which is the lake’s loss of depth due to siltation from watershed erosion. With recent heavy and frequent rains, the tributaries were all running high and muddy, and Peoria Lake has less volume with every passing day. How long this may continue, I do not know, but I hope that the day may not come within my lifetime for the lake to be shallow enough for black willow trees to survive, vanguards of a floodplain forest, where now there is only open water.

Barrens at Forest Park South Nature Preserve.

At the edge of the prairie opening, Julie and I sat on our favorite bench for a few minutes and watched a soaring red-tailed hawk. Several homes along Grandview Drive were visible from the bench, and I thought that any of those houses may not be a bad place to live; I wondered if we were being watched.

Before too long, we took the distant approach of two hikers as a signal to leave, and began our return hike. At our last view of the barrens opening, I stopped to look backward, to fix the view upon my mind, thinking about when I might return – hopefully many times over many healthful years. And I turned to Julie who said, "The hike felt good." Indeed, it did.

A Tale of Two Floodplain Lakes

– November 27, 2009 –

A panoramic view of Chautauqua National Wildlife Refuge opened before me as I stood on the observation platform at the bluff edge. Looking directly west, expanses of open water, floodplain forests, and blue skies dominated my view; the Illinois River was obscured by the intervening forests, and beyond the river was another large floodplain lake called "Thompson Lake." Since it has been my experience from previous years that the waters of Lake Chautauqua in late autumn would be teeming with waterfowl, with my binoculars I took a quick sweep of the wide view. But surprisingly, except for a small group of mallards, I saw few waterfowl. This I found to be strange indeed, especially in late November; and so, I decided to sit on a nearby bench for a while, and hope that other birds might show up.

Eagle Bluff Access in summer, Chautauqua Refuge.

After five or ten minutes, a small group of greater white-fronted geese flew over the refuge and continued onward to the northeast. Soon a few Bonapart’s gulls passed, alternately flying and diving into the water. But during my observation period, other than one fast-moving group of five common goldeneyes, a single bufflehead, two American black ducks, and twenty Canada geese, this large waterfowl refuge continued to seem rather empty of waterfowl. But it made me wonder what might be happening at Thompson Lake. Was the waterfowl migration simply in a regional slump, with few ducks anywhere, or was there a difference between bird use of these two floodplain lakes. Of course, the only way to find the answers would be to immediately travel to Thompson Lake.

Though Thompson Lake was about three miles away from Chautauqua Refuge’s headquarters by line of sight, to reach it I first had to drive six miles south to Havana, cross the Illinois River, and then drive another two or three miles northward on state route 78, before finding a place to pull off of the two-lane levee road, just beyond reach of the rather constant highway traffic. I did not say "safe place to pull off" because there really is no such thing on SR 78. The busy highway traffic on the levee road seems to be mostly composed of folks engaged in serious travel, not slow-moving wildlife watchers looking for rare birds. So just before reaching one of several steep exit lanes that abruptly lead, at right angles, off of the highway levee, I quickly checked my rearview mirror, to make sure I was not being tailgated by a massive semi truck, and turned off the road. The exit ramp was muddy, soft, and steep; and even with a four-wheel drive vehicle, I was not confident that I could make the climb back up the levee. So I stayed parked near the top, just beyond the highway pavement. (It should be noted that wildlife viewing on Thompson Lake can also be accomplished at the boat launching area a bit further north on SR 78.)

But what I saw next almost allowed me to forget all about automobiles, loud pickup trucks, loud motorcycles, and semi trucks. Thompson Lake, nearly two miles wide and three or four miles long, seemed to be literally bank to bank full of waterfowl! There were thousands of waterbirds in view in every direction, as far as I could see. American coots were overwhelmingly the most abundant species. Ruddy ducks and ring-necked ducks were also quite numerous, though much less so than the coots. Northern shoveler, gadwall, canvasback, lesser scaup, pied-billed grebe, and horned grebe were also present. The contrast with Lake Chautauqua could not have been greater.

Later, as I waited for a break in the fast-moving vehicles so that I could safely enter the stream of highway traffic, I began to think more in depth about what I had just witnessed. Why was Chautauqua Refuge so little used compared with Thompson Lake? I felt certain the answer involved factors such as habitat quality, habitat structure, and food availability, or a certain combination of these and perhaps other factors. Of course, one major factor, the "elephant in the room," is the Illinois River itself. Thompson Lake is protected from the river’s degrading influences¹ by a massive levee, while Chautauqua Refuge is frequently connected to the river through a system of spillways and gates. At any rate, because these two floodplain lakes are part of my regular route for making natural history observations, I hoped to  answer my own questions one day soon.

Illinois River (left), levee, Thompson Lake (right), in 2009.

Chautauqua Refuge spillway with flooding river, in 2007.

¹ For more information on the Illinois River, see the "River Reading List" in the "Categories" section on The River Landing’s home page (left panel).

A Coyote Encounter at Icy Chautauqua National Wildlife Refuge

February 27, 2010

The day’s weather was expected to be mostly cloudy, quite windy, and cold. But snow geese were beginning to show up in ever larger numbers in the skies over Havana. So it was time to make a short visit to Chautauqua Refuge; even though I knew beforehand, because of a long stretch of below-freezing weather, that its surface would mostly be frozen, and wildlife would likely be scarce.

At the head of the nature trail, the winds seemed almost calm, and I optimistically thought of having a chance to sit at one of the observation decks for a couple of hours without enduring much cold. But as I followed the trail through the forest, I could hear the winds become progressively louder through the treetops as the trail approached the bluff edge. At the furthest deck, northwest winds screamed without obstruction off the frozen lake surface directly into my face, and I knew my time for observations would be limited. And so I wrapped my head in a thick scarf, cleaned ice and snow off the bench, and poured a cup of hot coffee from my thermos.

Chautuaqua Nature Trail

A few Canada geese and several hundred greater white-fronted geese followed the Illinois River valley northward, and an adult eagle soared over the river near what I assumed was its nest. The Arctic scene before me inspired thoughts of admiration for any wildlife that could scratch food and shelter from such circumstances; it must not be an easy life. But this was good. The coffee kept me warm, and I was comfortable in my heavy clothing.

Every once in a while the ice cracked loudly and made other strange sounds, which suggested that while the ice may have been thick and solid, as a mass it moves and heaves with the waters below as pressures change and build. In fact, after a closer look, I noticed that all of the willow thickets, with their bases in water below the ice sheet, were leaning at about a 20 degree angle. Was this due to one massive movement of ice or had it been imperceptibly gradual over several weeks or days? [Recently, there has been an effect of the same process at Thompson Lake (Emiquon) across the Illinois River, where utility poles, with their bases locked within lake ice, have been pushed and snapped by the moving ice sheet.]

Thompson Lake "Emiquon" at Route 78

Then as I took another sip of coffee and re-adjusted my scarf to seal in the warmth, I noticed a coyote on the frozen lake surface, trotting along probably a quarter mile away. I set my coffee down, and through binoculars could see that it was a healthy-looking animal, solidly built and with a good coat. The coyote loped at a brisk no-nonsense pace, alert eyes and ears facing forward, moving almost in a straight line. At a certain point, though, one of the coyote’s senses must have detected something, because the animal quickly stopped to investigate the ice more closely: perhaps a dead fish frozen in the ice or a scent mark by another coyote. But after a few seconds, with wind chill in the low teens and its energy being drained away in the cold, the coyote plodded onward.

When I took another sip of coffee, its heat too had been dissipated by the cold and was gone forever; it’s the Second Law of Thermodynamics after all. And on that note, I packed up my belongings and followed the snow-covered trail back to the parking lot. It was time for lunch, which at least I would have no trouble finding.

One Muddy Walk at Spoon River Bottoms

March 14, 2010

Though the past winter had not been so bad in central Illinois, not even one crippling snow storm or day with a high temperature below zero, I still felt a bit weary from too many gray, indoor days. So even on a damp, dismal Sunday, with occasional light drizzle, I left home for a hike along the Spoon River to where it empties into the Illinois River at the Emiquon National Wildlife Refuge. Because of frequent flooding and ice cover, I had not been to this location for months. And so I did not know exactly what to expect – except, following several days of rain, extremely muddy conditions. But mud is what I always expect on the river bottoms. In fact , it’s part of the general experience.

Flooded Spoon River Bottoms, Emiquon NWR.

The small gravel parking area just east of state route 78 was covered in a thin layer of slippery silt deposited from flood waters that had only recently receded. Other vehicles that had strayed from the gravel left behind deep ruts in the mud as a warning. I briefly questioned whether my plan for the morning was a good idea, but quickly dismissed such apprehensions, grabbed my backpack, and headed toward the nearby Spoon River.

Most of the bottomlands were still flooded, but along the Spoon River’s banks there is a natural levee, or higher ground, that was still about 2 feet above the fast-moving river with its light brown, powerfully moving flood waters. Two immature bald eagles took flight as I approached the river, and then circled low overhead as I began my mile-long hike to the Illinois River. In the oxbow lakes and flooded forests I saw ring-necked ducks, mallards, and Canada geese. Paired-up wood ducks flew overhead, the females calling out in alarm. And I heard distant songs of Carolina wrens, tufted titmice, and black-capped chickadees. These were good signs, even as the spitting drizzle alternately came and went.

Most everything I touched seemed to be either slightly damp or wet and slippery; leaves that had fallen last year had the consistency of wet tissue paper. And I could not venture too far from the Spoon River without the ground becoming soft and mushy, so I stayed fairly close to its banks. At a gentle bend in the river, I could see far up- and downstream; I searched in vain for a belted kingfisher or great blue heron. And then I first truly noticed how water-saturated and unstable were the river’s banks, appearing to be nearly on the verge of collapse, perhaps just at the angle of repose. Would another 200 pounds make a difference, I wondered? Most of the riparian trees leaned over the river precariously low, and there was clear evidence of recently collapsing banks. But this is the natural process, after all, by which rivers meander, and how the refuge’s oxbow lakes were gradually formed. I walked onward, stepping lightly.

Finally at the Illinois River, I found a tree leaning at just the right angle to make for a nice backrest. I unpacked my lunch and took in my surroundings. Ring-billed gulls flew up and down the river, and nearby a pileated woodpecker called, though the bird itself remained hidden. I heard gurgling sounds from the Spoon River as its water rushed over tree branches and roots protruding from the riverbanks. The Spoon River injected its woody debris into the slower moving Illinois River, the debris then slowly passing by the town of Havana, visible across the river. I was reminded of the many times over the past winter I had sat in my vehicle at the Riverfront Park, gazing in the direction of the inaccessible Spoon River bottoms. For the moment, no one at the park that I could see looked back in my direction.

Mouth of the Spoon River.

As my binocular’s field of view followed a red-tailed hawk flying over the Illinois River, the upper branches of tall silver maple trees came into focus. Their branches displayed a subtle reddish hue from many small wind-pollinated flowers. The season was progressing, despite present conditions. But the cold, damp winds off the river were a stronger cue, one indicating that it was probably time to leave. In the direction of the Spoon River, there was a large splash that sounded like part of the bank collapsing, forcing me to recall foreboding thoughts from earlier in the morning.

Knowing that better days were ahead, I walked more deliberately back to the parking lot than on the way out, intent on not being caught in heavy rains should conditions worsen. Only once, among all of the gray and subdued browns of the bare forests, did I delay my progress: to view the bright yellow caps of two diminutive, highly energetic golden-crowned kinglets which stood out in contrast against the background of color and mood of the day more than anything I had seen so far. Their feathers were so clean, crisp, and bright compared to the sky, forests, and myself with mud on every piece of clothing. Clean: good; dirt: bad. I made a strong mental note regarding my mud-encased shoes: remove them before entering the house – a clear indication of a husband whose domestic education is quite complete.

An Illinois River Hill Prairie Fire

For prairies to persist in Illinois, with a climate that has long favored wooded habitats over grassland, periodic fire is a requirement. Later in the spring, a burned-off prairie will revive from its extensive underground root system, and prairie wildflowers and grasses may gain a competitive advantage over always encroaching shrubs and trees.

Of Illinois’ few remaining original prairies, hill prairies are some of the best examples. They occur on southwestern-facing bluff tops bordering river valleys, places that are too steep or rugged for farming. This photo essay shows the burning of a small glacial drift hill prairie at Crevecoeur Nature Preserve (Fort Crevecoeur Park) in Tazewell County, Illinois, on March 30, 2010.

 

* * *

At 11:15 AM, relative humidity was 41%, air temperature 56 ^oF, and wind was blowing 8 to 10 miles per hour from the south-southeast – in Photo 1, essentially from left to right, directly across the hill prairie ridge. The Illinois River is visible through the trees on the right-hand side of the photograph.

Photo 1.

* * *

To avoid a wild fire, controlled burns usually begin by lighting a back fire (Photo 2), which moves slowly against the wind. Later, a head fire (i.e., with the wind) will be lit, and the two will meet and burn each other out.

Photo 2.

* * *

In Photo 3, the back fire is being lit just inside of the tree line, beyond and around the base of the ridge. At this point, the back fire will turn into the head fire (Photo 4). Meanwhile, the back fire has been gradually moving up the slope, creating a wider burned off area that will prevent the head fire from further advancing. Note in Photo 5 the blackened area visible in the foreground, a result of the back fire reaching this point on the ridge top.

Photo 3.

Photo 4.

Photo 5.

 

* * *

Flames, burning debris, and ash from the head fire are being whipped across the ridge by brisk winds (Photo 6). In seconds, the back and head fires will meet. The main fire is out (Photo 7 and Photo 8), and only smoke is being swiftly carried across the ridge. Blackened ground and smoldering embers of woody debris and bunch grasses are all that remain. But before too much time passes, green shoots of prairie plants will begin emerging from the black; without the previous year’s interfering thatch, the growing plants will receive greater amounts of sunlight than in years without fire.

 
Photo 6.

Photo 7.

Photo 8.

* * *

The Context of Burning. There are seemingly hundreds of details, large and small, to keep track of when planning a safe, controlled fire: writing a detailed burn plan, constructing fire breaks and other labor-intensive site preparations, notification of neighbors and local fire departments, checking and repairing equipment, obtaining weather forecasts, and assembling a crew (one does not burn alone), to name only a few. Still, the evening before the scheduled burn, uncertainty about the weather remains. How accurate is the forecast? Could it change at the last minute? Will it be too wet, too dry, too humid, too hot, not hot enough, too windy, wind from the wrong direction? Should the burn crew be notified to assemble the next day as planned or should the burn be called off?

The responsibilities weigh heavily upon the burn leader; anxiety levels run high. The night before a burn, dreams are filled with visions of fire, sleep is fitful, the mind races.

After the burn crew has been mobilized and de-briefed and equipment is in place, the back fire may be lit; later, the head fire. Sometimes the flames of the head fire quickly rise to a roar, like an uncaged lion, and go charging off. The cat is out of the bag. Pandora’s Box has been opened. But if the burn has been well planned, and that better be the case, there is nothing to fear: the fire will burn out of its own accord as planned.

It is only then, after the fire is out, that there is time enough to recall the context in which we are burning: unleashing a force upon the land in a similar way, though on a smaller scale, as Native Americans had done for thousands of years. Were it not for their burning, it is unlikely that prairies would have survived in Illinois, from encroachments of forests, to greet the first European explorers. But when the Europeans finally did arrive, they saw an untrammeled Illinois wilderness; though to the Native Americans, that same scene was home and a landscape highly influenced by their activities.

Such thoughts might be briefly reflected upon immediately after a burn, but there is still much more work to be done; though one may be weary from smoke and stress, control lines must be checked again to ensure that the fire is truly out and everything is secure. If that is the case, fire control equipment will then be gathered and the burn crew released.

Returning to the burn scene the following day is a good idea, to walk the fire breaks again and more closely inspect the burn results, checking whether or not the fire had lived up to expectations. Did it help set back woody encroachment? Was it a complete burn or a mosaic of burned and unburned areas? Will another burn be required next year or should it wait a few years. Lack of evaluation would be almost as bad as not burning at all. Once begun, the work never ends.

[NOTE:  This article has been published in the Fall 2010 issue of Illinois Audubon magazine.  See www.illinoisaudubon.com.] 

Birding from an Illinois River Logjam

As luck would have it, the day of my voluntary furlough day from work (i.e., day off, no pay) was predicted to be sunny and warm, with light breezes and low humidity. A perfect summer day for a canoe-birding trip to the Illinois River. And so, by 7:30 a.m. I was launching my canoe into the south pool of Chautauqua National Wildlife Refuge. In the aftermath of a rainy spring, the Illinois River was about eight feet above flood stage, high enough to be completely over the refuge’s south levee system, giving free access to the Illinois River, about one and a half miles to the northwest.

Once on the water, my view of the refuge opened up to the broad Lake Chautauqua and the four-mile-wide Illinois River valley. Briefly I glanced at seven American white pelicans scattered about, a few double-crested cormorants, several ring-billed gulls, and a belted kingfisher; but otherwise, I concentrated on paddling to the river, where I planned to eat breakfast, read, and relax.

Chautauqua Refuge's south pool.

In a very short time, I sailed right over the refuge’s levee, crossed the Liverpool Island side channel, and entered the flooded forests of Liverpool Island. Floating high above the ground surface, there were few obstructions, and it was easy to paddle through the forest around the mature cottonwood and silver maple trees. A variety of bird songs and calls echoed from the tree canopy high overhead; prothonotary warblers, warbling vireos, and house wrens led the chorus in volume and repetition more than other species. But such diversions notwithstanding, I still headed straight for the river on the opposite side of the island, to find a place along the river’s edge where I planned to remain for the better part of the morning.

The problem was that even within the forest, the water was flowing, although at a lesser velocity than in the main river, and I did not have an anchor. Yet with a bit of maneuvering, I was able to wedge the canoe within a logjam of several large silver maple logs and branches on the island’s edge, which prevented the canoe from drifting downstream. Then once ensconced within the logjam, water flowed and eddied all around and under me, but the canoe was held in place against the trees by the flowing water. Finally I relaxed and could pay more attention to my surroundings, watch and literally feel the river’s flow, and enjoy the abundant bird life.

After an hour or so, I counted 26 bird species within the flooded island forest (see accompanying table); if it had been earlier in the breeding season, there would have been more. Occasional barn, tree, and northern rough-winged swallows flew over the river, briefly crossing my field of view. All was calm for a long time. But when a large v-bottomed cruiser passed, it set up a commotion of large swells that went crashing through the forest; still my logjam held fast, and I simply rode out the waves. Later a towboat-barge, with a busy crew on deck and a sign reading "Dangerous Cargo," passed, sending out another series of waves, though these were much smaller than the cruiser-generated waves. And no one, except the birds, knew of the canoe hidden within the deep shade of silver maples, wedged inside of a half-sunken pile of snags.

Eventually the sounds of leaves rustling in the upper tree canopies signaled that the wind, in the warm morning sun, was picking up speed. I took that as a sign to leave, and I expected to fight the wind on the open expanse of Lake Chautauqua as I returned to the refuge boat ramp. But before extracting the canoe from the logjam, I thought how unusual it was and how fortunate I was to have a day with such favorable conditions all converging at once, and how such a day cannot be planned for and may not occur again for quite some time. Circumstances have a way of changing. So on the return trip, I paddled slower than on the way out, savoring every moment, wind and all.

Illinois River Towboat-barge: Side Channels Illustration, Page 6

I took this photograph during the winter of 1991-92 on the Illinois River, a few miles upstream from Havana, Illinois.  At the time, I lived in a small cottage on the river bluffs, and it was easy to slide my canoe into the river if the weather was anything at all resembling mild.  I canoed in the winter quite a bit in those days.

When a towboat-barge, which is a towboat pushing one or several barges, passes in the middle of the river, the swells generated are usually surprisingly easy to handle, as long as you are in the deeper waters.  In the shallows, the waves can build up and crash down with great force, which could easily upset a canoe. 

This photograph was used to illustrate my first publication with Illinois Audubon magazine (Number 247 Winter 1994), in an article called Seasonal Flow.  Patti Reilly Malmborg used it to create the illustration on page 6 of the book Side Channels: A Collection of Nature Writing and Memoir.

For more information on Side Channels, see the author's web site (http://www.side-channels.com/).

Mouth of the Spoon River: Side Channels Illustration

This photograph was used by Patti Malmborg Reilly to create the illustration on the title page of Part 1, River Life in Side Channels:  A Collection of Nature Writing and Memoir.  I took this shot from my canoe in April 2008 on the Spoon River, just before the trees leafed out. 

The far tree line, across the Illinois River, is a small peninsula called "Bellrose Island."  The Havana Park District maintains this as a natural area.  The riverbank on the left side of the photograph is part of the Emiquon National Wildlife Refuge.

In the Company of Bald Eagles…and a Papillon named Charlie

So far the winter of 2011-12 was unusually mild.  On January 5^th, in fact, the weather forecast called for light winds, sun, and a high of 55 degrees.  This would be, I reasoned, much too nice of a mid-winter day to remain indoors.  Harsh weather had yet to materialize this winter in central Illinois, and I knew the weather would eventually change for the worse.  So I gathered a few books and Charlie and headed for the cabin, located on the bluffs overlooking Quiver Lake, an Illinois River backwater just south of Chautauqua National Wildlife Refuge.

It took only a few minutes to reach the cabin from home, and without any delay both Charlie and I were comfortably seated against a large cottonwood tree on the sandy beach, listening to the crying gulls over the lake, and trying to stay warm in the light breeze.  But Charlie kept wandering toward two large Labrador retrievers further down the beach, so I tied his leash to a stake near the cottonwood.

After a few minutes, an immature bald eagle landed on the topmost branch of my cottonwood, about 75 feet directly above.  I stayed perfectly still, except for slowly moving my binoculars to my eyes.  The eagle constantly shifted its gaze in different directions toward the lake, but often looked directly at Charlie and me; its talons had a death grip on the tree branch, reminding me of needle-sharp meat hooks.  I could clearly see its eyes locked onto mine, and I wondered if the eagle thought Charlie, who is about the size of a cat, would make a nice meal.  I read that it is rare for a bald eagle to hunt for small domestic dogs or cats, but not totally unheard of.  Charlie whined about being tied to a stake.  It’s for your own good, I thought, not expecting him to understand.  Charlie fidgeted, but the eagle was not concerned about us.  Then after about ten minutes, after I had become engrossed in reading again, I heard the gentle beating of large wings, and the eagle was gone.

Over the river bottoms and along the bluffs, there were eagles in every direction; whenever I looked up from my reading, I would see one or two soaring, flying past, or foraging for fish over the open lake waters.  Out in the Illinois River, about a mile to the west, past Quiver Lake and the forests at Quiver Lake bottoms, I could hear a towboat-barge traveling upstream.  There was a slight smell of dead fish coming from the lakeshore, a smell that reminded me of Lake Michigan in the 1960s, when alewives died in great numbers and washed up on Chicago’s beaches.  At Quiver Lake there were dead gizzard shad, smallmouth buffalo, freshwater drum, and Asian carp.  The dead fish and open waters were clearly reasons for the numerous scavenging gulls and eagles.   And then I heard a strange call overhead, and saw another immature bald eagle perching on the top of a cottonwood tree about 50 feet away. This eagle focused on the open lake, and rarely looked in my direction.  It left after only a few minutes.

Quiver Lake beach

Then suddenly a large eagle’s shadow quickly moved across the ground, passing over us in an instant.  If I were Charlie’s size, I would have learned to freeze in place when a shadow passes overhead, especially because the eagles cruise the bluff line all day long, all winter, riding the updraft winds, looking for easy prey.  The lakeside forests also harbor great horned and barred owls.  But the domesticated Charlie was oblivious, as he focused on a pair of fox squirrels chasing each other up and down several nearby trees.  I kept Charlie close by, while he whined about being kept from running after the squirrels.

By mid-afternoon, the winds were picking up speed, higher than expected, and I thought of two terms that I remembered hearing more often when I lived in Chicago:  wind chill factor and hypothermia.  And I realized that maybe I was underdressed, and it was time to leave.  As Charlie and I left the lake breezes behind, I listened one more time for a few moments, as eagle calls echoed from the river bottoms.  It was good to spend a winter day outside in the company of eagles, and Charlie too.

Charlie safe at home

Hiking and Birding the Spoon River Bottoms

Birding the Spoon River bottomlands is not something that can be counted upon without fail.  At one extreme, the river is quite likely to be at some level of flood, sometimes with no dry land in sight; or at the other extreme, it may be so low that the backwaters have dried out completely, leaving little habitat for waterbirds.  But so far this winter, river levels and backwaters were at their perfect levels:  water enough for migrating waterfowl with ample dry land for hiking.  And so, hike I did, following a long favorite route through the oxbow area at the Emiquon National Wildlife Refuge, where the Spoon River flows into the Illinois River.

 

Walking was easy over the extremely flat ground.  And at no time at all, I reached my first stop of the morning:  on a natural levee bordering one of the oxbow lakes, formed long ago when the oxbow was actually part of the Spoon River itself.  Several years ago, in this very spot, I sat for a long time watching great blue herons feeding on Asian carp, an experience detailed in Chapter 3 of my book Side Channels (http://www.side-channels.com/).  On this day, I saw only one heron, but the lake was filled with waterfowl, and the trees with hundreds of noisy red-winged blackbirds and grackles.  I used an old punky log as a seat cushion and a silver maple tree as a backrest, and I was comfortable and warm for the time being, surrounded by wildlife, forests, and wetlands.  Then from the direction of Havana, a trail whistle blew, reminding me that I was only a few miles, not thousands of miles, from home.  Green-winged teal called from all directions around the lake.  They flew around the refuge in small close-knit flocks, along with hundreds of mallards, and lesser numbers of northern pintails, ring-necked ducks, and northern shovelers.  Far on the other side of the lake, three buffleheads bobbed heads and flapped wings in the throes of courtship.

 

But after only a short time, the winds began increasing, and I realized that it was probably around mid-morning.  The bright sun shined through cloudless skies, but it provided little warmth on this early March day.  And my rotten log sofa was not as dry as it looked; through my pants I could feel the cold dampness.  It was time to generate some heat.  And so I walked on.

 

My path over the soft alluvial ground eventually led to the Spoon River, which I followed to its end.  Here I found a tree leaning at just the right angle, where I planted myself for a late breakfast sandwich and reading.  But this time, I used my backpack as protection against the cold, damp soil of the forest floor, and I stayed warm and comfortable.  There were whitecaps on the river and the strong winds tossed around one of the first turkey vultures of the year like an autumn leaf.

 

Though I could have stayed in that place all day, my original plans were to hike along the Illinois River to the Thompson Lake levee, which forms the northern boundary of the refuge, for a view of the Thompson-Flag Lakes bottomlands beyond the refuge boundaries.  But it was late morning, and little Charlie the dog had been in his “pen” for over four hours; he would need to be let out soon, or I would face the consequences.  So I gathered up my backpack and slowly meandered back to the parking lot, fine with my decision.  Thompson-Flag Lakes would be there for another day.

 

Bird List, Emiquon National Wildlife Refuge, March 10, 2012

 

Canada Goose                         Blue Jay

Wood Duck                              Black-capped Chickadee

Mallard                                   White-breasted Nuthatch

Northern Shoveler                   Brown Creeper

Northern Pintail                      Carolina Wren

Green-winged Teal                  American Robin

Ring-necked Duck                    American Tree Sparrow

Bufflehead                              Song Sparrow

Great Blue Heron                    Dark-eyed Junco

Turkey Vulture                        Northern Cardinal

American Coot                        Red-winged Blackbird

Ring-billed Gull                       Common Grackle

Mourning Dove                        American Goldfinch

Downy Woodpecker

Hairy Woodpecker

Red-bellied Woodpecker

 

Map of Emiquon National Wildlife Refuge, Fulton County, Illinois

(Click to enlarge)